The following pages contain details of our Scope
of Work and descriptions of repiping materials, in the
form of common questions regarding our procedures, coupled
with concise answers. We try to include all basic information
during your walk-through and estimate. If you have a
question not answered here, or if you need more details,
please call us at any time and we will be happy to assist
you.
- Q: What areas
and cities do you service? Top
→ A: As a contractor licensed in the State
of California, Green Hills Repiping can provide services
virtually anywhere in the State. Repiping is a different
type of business than general plumbing; most reputable
repiping companies do not charge a "service fee" or
"travel charge" to venture out of their home area. Our
business is based solely on the replacement of old or
inadequate plumbing; we expect to have to travel to
different areas as needed.
- Q: What are the
real advantages of repiping? Top
→ A: If your home or building currently has
old pipes of galvanized metal, or even lower-quality
copper, you may be experiencing leaks, low water pressure,
restricted flow or even rust, mineral and metal debris
from your faucets. Old metal pipes may be severely deteriorated,
clogged with rust and sediments, or have broken or weak
areas that are leaking. Even plastic pipes can become
brittle with age, and frequently the joined ends and
elbows can weaken or leak. Pipes like these can burst,
or leak in areas you cannot see, resulting in serious
water damage. Not to mention the related health risks
in using water with high quantities of rust and sediments.
Repiping will eliminate these frustrating, potentially
hazardous conditions, while adding to the overall value
of your home or building.
- Q: What are
the different “types” of copper pipe? Top
→ A: There are three “types”
or “grades” of copper piping: “M”,
“L”, and “K”. Type “M”
is commonly referred to as “residential”
and, previously, was normally used in new construction
and repipes. Type “M”, however, is the “lowest”
grade, and has frequently proven to wear out in a relatively
short period of time. Type “K” is the highest
grade, but is generally used in more “industrial”-type
applications where high pressure, high temperatures,
or even large amounts of certain chemicals may be employed
in the water system. Type “L” is in the
middle: while considered a “commercial”
grade, it is more affordable than Type “K”,
much stronger than Type “M”, and provides
safe, durable and dependable service in virtually all
residential water areas.
- Q: What other
materials can be used for repiping? What about using
plastic? Top
→ A: Green Hills is trained and certified
in the installation of “PEX” (cross-linked
Polypropylene) piping, which is a semi-flexible type
of plastic tubing that is recognized and approved as
safe for potable water systems. “PEX” is
the common trade nick-name for this kind of pipe. PEX
has some advantages over metal piping, especially in
areas that have “aggressive” water with
higher acidity or chemical content. While it has been
in use for nearly 30 years in Europe, Canada and in
all other states of the U.S.A., PEX is not yet approved
for use in all areas of California, and is not yet generally
well-known among Californian homeowners. Some developers
are currently using PEX piping in new home construction
in areas where it is approved, and it is gaining popularity
as it becomes more common. The use of PEX can be discussed
and considered if you are interested and if your city
allows it. The repiping procedure when using PEX is
virtually the same as when using copper pipe, except
that PEX piping does not require soldering. PEX materials
are fully covered by the Manufacturer’s 25-Year
Warranty. Consumer Information on PEX tubing is readily
available at the leading Manufacturers’ websites:
REHAU
http://www.rehau-na.com/construction/heating...plumbing/heating...plumbing.shtml
WIRSBO
www.wirsbo.com/main.php?pm=1&mm=2&sm=2&pc=homeowner/ho_mm2sm2.php
ZURN
www.zurn.com/operations/pexrh/pages/home.asp
- Q: I’ve heard
that copper pipe is “noisy”...why is that? Top
→ A: The sound of water running through copper
pipe is different than old galvanized metal pipe for
a couple of reasons: the wall of copper pipe, while
being very strong, is thinner than galvanized metal,
allowing slightly more transfer of sound. Also, copper
“sings” or “rings”, while galvanized
produces a lower-key, dull sound. You may certainly
notice the difference, but should adjust to it within
a few days as you do to any other common sound in your
house.
- Q: How is the price
of a repipe determined? Top
→ A: The very basis of our pricing is dependent
on the size of your water system, the number of water-service
areas in the building (the total number of sinks, toilets,
tubs/showers, etc.), and how much material and labor
is required to replace it all. Other factors will contribute,
such as the ease or difficulty in accessing your water
system, and the layout, for example.
- Q: What about
the main line (from the city meter to the house)?
Top
→ A: It is necessary to replace the main
line if you have old, deteriorated piping. (Sometimes,
the main line may already have been re-done by a previous
owner of the house, or depending when your house was
built, it might be original copper or plastic, and still
in good condition.) The main water service is usually
considered a separate job, priced according to length
and other factors (whether or not the line runs under
some concrete, or through some landscaping, for example).
However, when the main line is replaced as a part of
your total repipe project, we offer you a greatly reduced
fee. We will discuss this with you, as necessary.
- Q: What work
and material is included in your base price for a repipe?
Top
→ A: The base price comprises the replacement
of ALL hot and cold water supply pipes, feed lines,
flexible supply lines, main valves and smaller shut-off
valves throughout the building. This includes: kitchen
(sinks, dishwasher, etc.); bathrooms (sinks, toilets,
tubs/showers); water heater (water in-and-out); main
valve into the building; garden hose bibs on outside
walls; laundry room; little extras such as wet-bars,
utility sinks or icemakers. All water-supplied areas
are included in your initial quote. Pricing also includes
the patching and refinishing of all holes we make in
the walls. You will not need a separate contractor to
fix your walls.
- Q: Don't you need
to tear-out the walls to put in new pipes? Will you
make holes on outside walls? Top
→ A: It is virtually NEVER necessary to remove
a whole wall, nor even a large section of it, in a normal
repipe project. We make only the minimal openings needed
to allow space to work behind the walls, and we patch-up
the holes ourselves. In many cases, these holes will
be hidden in places you do not see regularly, such as
under the sinks or back of a closet. We do all we can
to avoid cutting wallpaper, tile, paneling or outside
surfaces of the house and will do so ONLY if we have
no other route to take. Any unusual situation will be
evaluated and thoroughly explained during your estimate.
- Q: Do you take out
all the old pipes? Top
→ A: Much of the old piping will be removed.
In a few areas, we may elect to leave an old pipe in
place, because it would cause damage to remove it. Old
pipe remaining will not pose any hazard to your house
or family. The ends of the old pipe will be cut, allowing
any water to dry-out; you will not be left with damp
areas where germs and musty odors can form.
- Q: Do you paint
the patched walls when you're finished? Top
→ A: No, sorry, but we are plumbers after
all, not painters! We promise to make our patches nice
and smooth, and match standard textures (we may not
be able to perfectly match fancy custom finishes), ready
for painting. Just allow a few days for the patching
components to dry thoroughly. As mentioned previously,
many of the wall patches are in out-of-sight places
(and many people decide not to repaint those areas at
all).
- Q: Will all the
new pipes be behind the walls, where they will not show?
Top
→ A: YES! While some plumbing companies may
run the new pipes in areas where you can see them (like
popping-up through the bottom of your bathroom vanity,
or at the back of a kitchen cabinet), we put everything
back BEHIND the walls. The exceptions of course are
the water heater (or softener) and the laundry where
the lines are going in-and-out, and your flexible supply
lines for under the sink faucets and toilets, which
will be visible just the same as they are now.
- Q: Don't I need
to replace my drains, too?
→ A: In most buildings, the drainage systems
are made of very rugged materials, which provide good
service for many years. Unless your house is very, very
old, it’s not very often that the drains are in
such poor condition that they need to be completely
replaced, and that would be an entirely separate project.
However, if you are experiencing problems with your
drain systems, please bring it to our attention and
we can offer suggestions, advice or options.
- Q: How much will
my water pressure improve after the repipe? Will anything
else be different? Top
→ A: Your actual pressure is determined by
your city's water supply. That is, if your city supplies
60 PSI, your pressure will always be 60. After replacing
deteriorated, clogged-up old plumbing, the water is
free to flow through wide-open pipes. You will notice
increased volume delivered through the new pipes. So,
more water will be supplied to your bathroom and kitchen
fixtures, heater, clothes washer, etc., but at the same
pressure you have from the city. Your water heater will
fill more quickly; the hot water will get to the faucets
faster; and you should be able to operate two-or-more
water sources at the same time, with little or no fluctuation
in temperature and volume. Please be aware that this
increased flow of water volume can stress and strain
older fixtures, more often than not causing leaks in
old faucets, showerheads, etc. If your fixtures are
very old or worn, you may wish to consider replacement
at the time of your repipe. Otherwise, you may have
to hire another plumber to do it at a later date, as
our scheduling typically does not allow us to return
to perform general plumbing as a separate project.
- Q: Do I get all
new faucets and fixtures? What if I need a new water
heater? Top
→ A: Many property owners decide to give
the bathrooms and kitchen a plumbing "facelift
" at the time of their repipe. Faucets and fixtures
are NOT included in our base cost of repiping. If you
wish, we will install any fixtures that you purchase
and have ready for us at the time of your project, for
a discounted fee. This option can be discussed at the
time of your estimate, or anytime prior to scheduling
the start of the repipe, and we will give advice or
suggestions to help you choose the proper products.
If your old water heater needs to be replaced, we can
provide the new heater if you prefer, and will add the
cost of the unit to your quote. In choosing other fixtures
such as faucets, you will likely be much more satisfied
if you choose those for yourself, as there are many
designs, finishes, colors and pricing options available
at your local home improvement retail store.
- Q: Is your work
guaranteed? Top
→ A: We offer a guarantee of our workmanship,
and a ten-year warranty on all the piping materials
that we provide for your project (please see details
on Warranty Page). This warranty does not extend to
any fixtures, heaters or other products that you purchase
and we install for you. We will honor the workmanship
involved in our installation, but consumer products
are covered by their own manufacturers' warranties.
When you are buying fixtures, review the manufacturer
warranty carefully. If you ever notice any leaks or
problems after your repipe, please contact us immediately.
(Please see the separate page regarding our warranty
and guarantees.)
- Q: Do you have
referrals? Top
→ A: We are happy to provide you with the
names and phone numbers of some of our previous customers.
These are property owners, like you, to whom we have
provided services, and who have indicated that they
would be comfortable to be contacted as referrals. We
try to give you referrals only within your local calling
area.
- Q: How do I know
that your contractor's license is good? Can I check
it out? Top
→ A: We encourage you to check our license
status with the California State License Board. You
can phone them directly or access them on the Internet.
Check any California contractor's license by calling
1-800-321-CSLB(2752) anytime, or use online License
Check at www.cslb.ca.gov
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Better Business Bureau
Contractors State License Board
